Week 124-125: Bled, Pula, Rovinj

Traveling around Europe in March can be tricky because it is considered to be the off season in many touristy places. On one hand, this means fewer crowds and lower prices, making it an ideal time for those seeking a more relaxed and peaceful experience. On the other hand, if you are someone who craves adventure and finds it hard to just sit and relax like us, you need to get creative with where you pick to travel to in March.

After a few weeks debating between the eight countries surrounding Austria, Eric and I decided to spend five days traveling around Slovenia and Croatia with our friend Nate while checking off three new cities and two new via ferratas.

March 9

5:00 PM – DRIVE TO LAKE BLED

Once Eric got done with work, we drove to Lake Bled, the alpine lake where we came in Week 82 for Eric’s 31st birthday. Only three hours from Gmunden, this lake is known for its emerald-green waters, stunning mountain views, the tiny island in the middle of the lake, and the 1000-year-old fairytale castle clinging to a cliff.

8:30 PM – CHECK INTO OLD HOUSE BLED

We checked into Old House Bled, a charming guesthouse located in the heart of Bled. Eric and I actually tried to come here for dinner in May 2022, but it was completely booked out, so to be back to this house was cool.

The Old Bled House is a 300-year-old traditional farmhouse, restored in 2016, and now accommodates guests near and far. The house spans three floors with 13 bedrooms and a restaurant. The walls were covered with tiny island paintings and the rooms were full of handmade wooden furniture

8:45 PM – EAT A BLED CAKE

No trip to Bled is complete without a piece of Bled cake, a delicious flaky pastry layered with cream and custard. So, our first order of business upon arrival was to go into the restaurant for a slice of cake. The kitchen was getting ready to close so the workers were not exactly ecstatic to see three more people walking through the arched cellar doorways, but we asked if we could just get a dessert and they happily accommodated.

March 10

8:00 AM – BREAKFAST

We were the first ones in the dining room and returned to our same table from the night before. After filling up on toast, pastries, and fruit, we loaded back into the car and drove towards Triglav National Park for our first day of adventures.

9:00 AM – VIA FERRATA MOJSTRANA TOP

After a quick 20 minute drive, we parked at the Slovenian Mountain Museum and found ourselves at the base of Grančišče, a rocky mountain towering 2900 feet above the village of Veliki Breg in Mojstrana. After a quick stop inside the museum to double check it was fine to park our car there, the lady working inside said the climb was technically still closed, but since it was free of snow and ice, it was fine to continue at our own risk.

*Looking down at our car from the mountain*

There are two via ferrata routes climbers can take. An easier “B” level one and a more difficult “C/D” level one. Both cross paths at multiple points along the climb, so we technically used both routes to reach the top, but tried to follow the C/D path as much as possible.

After an hour of climbing along the steel cables and iron steps and a few rain drops, we made it to the top and were rewarded with stunning views of the Julian Alps that were partially covered by distant rain clouds.

We hiked 15 minutes down the mountain and arrived back to the car to put our climbing gear away.

11:30 AM – HIKE TO PERIČNIK WATERFALL

For the next 50 minutes, we walked across a snowy and icy trail towards the Peričnik Waterfall.

The scenery on this hike was not the most interesting since the trees are still all brown and it was an overcast day making it hard to see the surrounding mountains, but this hike is one of Slovenia’s most popular and the Peričnik is must-visit destination.

We finally got close enough to see the water plunging 170 feet, creating a turquoise pool of water. I imagine people trying to take a dip here in the hot summer months.

The coolest part about this waterfall, and what made me add it to our itinerary, is visitors can actually walk behind it, offering a unique perspective and experience. This waterfall is fed by two streams formed from the Julian Alps.

2:00 PM – LATE LUNCH AT PARK RESTAURANT CAFE

By the afternoon our stomachs were growling, so we drove back to Bled and walked 5 minutes to a nearby cafe on the lake.

This cafe is known for its lake and mountain views, delicious food, the original bled cake, and robot servers on a busy summer day, making it a must-visit food stop for anyone visiting Bled. The snow capped peaks of Triglav in the distance, the faint church bells ringing every 15 minutes, and the warm spring sun beaming down on us created a relaxing and peaceful vibe after a big adventurous morning.

4:00 PM – WALK AROUND LAKE BLED

After lunch, we walked along the lake until we reached the best view point for sunset.

6:00 PM – LAKE BLED CASINO

Traveling with the guys means visiting a casino whenever we cross paths with one. So, we entered The Bled Casino expecting to hear the slot machine bells, the clatter of chips, the muffled conversations, and the occasional cheer from a winning player. However, there was just one man sitting at a slot machine repeatedly pressing the same button over and over again. After walking in-between slot machines and table games, we sat down at roulette.

7:30 PM – DINNER AT JOYA KITCHEN

Since we had a late lunch we were not super hungry, but also knew we wanted one last Slovenian meal on our last night in Bled. So, after walking in and out of three restaurants, we walked into Joya Kitchen, an asian restaurant and probably the best noodles Eric and I have ever had.

March 11

9:00 AM – DRIVE TO LJUBLIANA

We checked out of The Old Bled House and hit the road for Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, located in the heart of the country. Like most European cities, Ljubljana was overflowing with charming streets and lively atmosphere. It felt like a mixture of Amsterdam and Salzburg.

10:00 AM – BREAKFAST AT LE PETIT CAFE

Le Petit Cafe is a popular French inspired cafe with a large selection of breakfast items.

11:00 AM – WALK AROUND LJUBLIANA

One of the most prominent features of Ljubljana is the Ljubljanica River, which flows through the center of the city and is lined with outdoor cafes, restaurants, and shops.

As Ljubljana was emerging from its winter season, spring was in full effect. From the vibrant farmers market to the towering Ljubljana Castle, you could feel the hustle and bustle coming back to the city.

During our short stop in the city, we were on the hunt for Jane Austin’s Pride and Prejudice. A request from one of Nate’s coworkers. We walked into 6 or 7 different book store and no-one had a copy. Since it is an old book and doesn’t have many reprints, it’s pretty rare.

12:00 PM – DRIVE TO PULA

Within two hours from Ljubljana, we crossed over the border into the Istria region of Croatia enroute to Pula.

Pula is the largest city in Istria known for its well-preserved Roman ruins. The Istria region takes visual and culinary inspiration from its neighbor across the Adriatic Sea–Italy.

2:30 PM – CHECK INTO AIRBNB

Our airbnb was located a few feet away from the world’s 6th largest Roman amphitheater.

*Our Airbnb is the building on the right*

3:00 PM – THE PULA ARENA

“Amphitheater”, “Arena”, and “Colosseum” are names for this massive monument and we were excited to walk around, inside, and under it.

As a new creator for Get Your Guide, I received a sponsored experience to see the arena. In exchange, I will be sharing a post and a reel on Instagram within the next week, so be on the look out.

If you are planning a trip to Pula, make sure to get an entrance ticket here so you can explore the area.

This arena was built between 27 BC - 68 AD and is the only remaining Roman amphitheater in the world with a complete wall. Its oval shape measures 132 meters long and 105 meters wide, with a seating capacity of around 23,000. It continues to provide entertainment today with operas, ballets, sports competitions as well as the Pula Film Festival.

It has seen a lot in its more than 2000 year existence. This elliptical-shaped, three story tall monument holds many stories within its arches and columns. From gladiator fights to animal hunts and mock sea battles.

The Pula Arena has been the symbol of the city for 2000+ years. A symbol of survival which has become integrated in the modern city.

3:30 PM – WALK AROUND PULA

The first thing you notice about Pula is the enormous, spectacular arena.

The second is the large industrial cranes towering over the edge of the city. This coastal city, which was once home to the Austrian Navy, is now a working port and a gateway to the Adriatic with a long tradition of wine making, fishing, and shipbuilding.

For centuries, famous people have come to Pula to catch a glimpse of this authentic, maritime town. People like Michelangelo, Napoleon, Elizabeth Taylor, and Queen Elizabeth have walked the streets of Pula and now the three of us.

4:00 PM – PULA CASTLE

The castle was built in the 17th century by the Venetians as a defensive fortress against the Ottoman Empire. Because of its dominating position, the fortress was always used for defense of the city, bay, and port. It is situated on a hill overlooking the city and offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

Today, the castle serves as a popular tourist attraction and cultural center, with a range of exhibitions and events held throughout the year. Visitors can explore the castle's historic walls, towers, and courtyards, and learn about the fascinating history of this important landmark.

The castle is only open until 5 PM in the off season, and even though we arrived an hour before closing, they were not letting anyone else in, so we just walked around the castle grounds

As we descended from the castle, we walked down the narrow streets of Giardini Street.

Every part of this city felt old, yet similar to our time in Sicily in week 83.

Rundown buildings where paint has peeled back, laundry dangling from windows, curious cats strutting down the narrow stone staircases. A town with a strange juxtaposition of people who are experiencing Pula for one day and those who have never left the city limits a day in their life. The streets also felt empty due to many stores being closed and the small off season crowd.

*Window shutters on a bright yellow building*

*Arena shaped sunlight hitting an apartment building*

As we walked under the Arch of the Sergii we were simultaneously walking over Zerostrasse – Pula’s underground tunnel system.

Below Pula is an underground tunnel world stretching almost across entire Pula, known as Zerostrasse. Pula's underground tunnels were erected during the WW1 to provide a shelter for people in case of air raids. The underground tunnel system consisted of shelters, trenches, galleries and passages, as well as ammunition storages and communication passages. The tunnels continued to expand during WW2 and would hold 50,000 people which is nearly Pula’s entire population.

4:30 PM – FARMERS MARKET (Tržnica)

Unfortunately, the market was closed when we arrived. Had we been in the square five hours earlier, we would have seen farmers from neighboring areas selling their goods here. Products like local fruit and vegetables, olive oils, honey, spices, and truffles. Adjacent to the outdoor market was a 19th century iron framed covered market where Pula’s largest fish market is held each morning.

5:00 PM – DINNER AT PIANTINA

We quickly realized there are not many restaurants in Pula, but we happened to walk past a place promoting its “Fine Fast Food”. Piantina was surprisingly a great find and with over 200 positive online reviews, other people agree this is one of the best spots places in Pula.

The closer the day got to sunset, the more vibrant the buildings became.

At night, as the sun sets over the arena, the harbor cranes turn into a light installation. Eight towering cranes illuminated in a various colors, for an hour and a half every evening.

Once the night sky was in full effect, we went back out for ice cream and a casino run–of course. The Pula casino was a little more lively, but no where near the vibe of a casino the boys were used to.

March 12

I woke up for sunrise to catch the first sunrays hitting the arena.

8:00 AM – BREAKFAST AT LOKAL BY NELLO

A modern bakery a few minutes away from our Airbnb with delicious pastries and breakfast sandwiches.

9:00 AM – DRIVE TO BAREDINE CAVE

The Istrian Peninsula in Croatia is home to several stunning caves, each offering visitors a unique and unforgettable underground experience. The Baredine Cave, located 40 minutes from Pula near the town of Poreč is one of the most popular caves in the region. The cave was discovered in 1950 and has welcomed tourists from around the world since 1995.

10:00 AM – CAVE RAPPELLING TOUR

We arrived at the cave climbing cente, SPELEOLIT. We met our cave guide, Alen Zuzic, who was surprised to have a tour group this early in the year. In fact, we were his first tour of 2023. This is such a great activity if you are visiting in the off season because it gives you a chance to explore other parts of Croatia you may not be interested in seeing during summer months when water sports are in full effect.

After learning the ropes, literally, we were ready for the real thing.

After a 15 meter vertical descent into the dark pit, our tour had begun.

Over the next two hours, swarms of bats flew around us as we climbed up and down various cave tunnels, learning about the cave’s stalactites, stalagmites, and calcite crystals.

*Eric looking over an edge with the tour guide*

*Eric and Nate checking out one of the vertical tunnels*

*Using a rope to walk down from a tunnel*

Limestone stalactites form extremely slowly – usually less than 10cm every thousand years. So these have been forming for a very long time. The tour guide made sure to repeatedly say “watch your head” so that we would not accidentally knock one off.

As we were learning about the cave system, the guide asked us about the largest cave system in the world which is located in Kentucky–Mammoth Cave. I have been to this cave a handful of times growing up, but now that I am older I have a bigger interest in it. I wish to go back someday. It seems the more we explore abroad, the more I want to go back to America and travel around our home country.

2:00 PM – VISIT MOTOVUN

25 minutes from the cave is a picturesque hilltop town called Motovun. Located in the heart of the Istrian Peninsula and a popular paragliding spot due to the wind that can be created from the top.

The town is known for its stunning views of the surrounding countryside, with its fortified walls and medieval architecture adding to its charm. Visitors can explore the narrow, winding streets of the old town, which are lined with ancient stone buildings and historic churches.

2:30 PM – LUNCH AT BISTRO BAR MONTONA GALLERY

The area surrounding Motovun is famous for its truffle hunting, with many visitors coming to the town to sample the delicious truffles found in the nearby forests. The restaurant with the most visitors is the bistro bar at the top of the town. They serve traditional Istrian cuisine with several friendly street cats waiting to steal a bite of your truffle pasta.

*Eric petting a kitty at our table. It has a clipped ear like our cat Denzel*

4:00 PM – EXPLORE ROVINJ

After another short 30 minute drive, we arrived in Rovinj about an hour before sunset. Rovinj is a beautiful coastal town located on the western coast of the Istrian Peninsula. The town is known for its picturesque old town, which spills out onto the Adriatic Sea.

As we made our way around the edge of the city in search of the best spot to watch the sunset, we crossed paths with an old WWII bunker. This bunker was built by the Germans to defend the city from naval attacks.

5:00 PM – SUNSET IN ROVINJ

We found a big rock formation near Plaža Balota where we set up for sunset.

*The sun reflecting on the Adriatic Sea*

6:30 PM – DINNER IN ROVINJ

Once the sun was gone for the day, we continued to walk through winding alleyways illuminated with gas lanterns and along the charming marina full of shops and restaurants. We grabbed one last Croatian dinner at La Riva before heading back to Pula.

March 13

9:00 AM – BREAKFAST IN PULA

Eric and I went back to Lokal by Nello. Nate went back to Piantina.

10:00 AM – DRIVE BACK TO AUSTRIA

On our way back home, we wanted to break the 6 hour drive up a little so we stopped in Trieste, Italy for one last adventure.

11:30 AM – VIA FERRATA BRUNO BIONDI - ROSE D'IVERNO

Via Ferrata Bruno Biondi - Rose D’Iverno offers three routes of various difficulty and a beautiful view of the industrial town of Trieste, located in northeastern Italy, near the Slovenian border.