Week 137-139: Italy, Switzerland, and Austria with Emily and Jake

Weeks 137-138 were spent climbing mountains in the Dolomites, devouring pizzas and gelato in Milan and Lake Como, and taking in the breathtaking views around St. Moritz with my friend and former teammate, Emily, and her husband, Jake! Week 139 was spent trying to sum it all up for this blog post!

June 6

We began our trip with a 5-hour drive to Molveno, Italy.

By 8:00 PM, we were checking into Alpotel Dolomiten, a charming hut at the edge of Italy’s “most beautiful lake” and at the bottom of the Brenta Dolomites.

Early June is still considered the off-season in the Dolomites, so there were only a few other tourists wandering the cobbled streets.

The hotel restaurant was closing, but Taverna La Botte - Pizzeria Birreria was open, and kicking off our time in Italy with a couple of pizzas was our idea of a perfect first night.

June 7

We grabbed breakfast from downstairs and drove 7 minutes to the Andalo. After a ride in a cable car, a chair lift, and a 15-minute hike, we arrived at the starting point for the Ferrata Delle Aquile or “the Eagle’s Via Ferrata” – our third via ferrata of the year.

*Clouds during the via ferrata…looked like a dog.*

The climb started with 90% cloud coverage, but as we made our way around the Paganella mountain the clouds opened up and we caught the best views of Lake Garda and Trentino.

This was probably the hardest climb we’ve done to date. Rated C/D with an E variant…it had a lot of airy ledges, bridges, spiral ladders, and even the famous pendulum–a rope you swing on to get from one side to another (we skipped this part) but looked cool for people who are much more experienced.

June 8

From Molveno, we continued south to Milan, our 9th Italian city, where we would later meet up with Emily and Jake!

To kick off our 24 hours in Milan, we took the metro train from our hotel to the main square outside of the Duomo. Then joined this private walking tour where we learned Milan is home to 1.4 million residents, 90 museums, nearly 80 art galleries, more than 50 theatres, endless high-end fashion boutiques, and the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.

5 million people visit the Duomo every year. Last year my parents visited it and this year was our turn!

Milan Duomo Hours: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Last admission for the rooftop: 5:10 PM
There is a dress code to enter the Duomo – No legs or shoulders can be exposed, nor sandals, sunglasses, or hats. If you show up without the proper clothing you will be asked to put on a long plastic cover.

From far away, the intricate Gothic architecture, towering spires, and flying buttresses are what make the cathedral stand out. There are five doors balancing the front facade–each telling a different story. From the first Christians and the spread of Christianity to the Virgin Mary to the history of Milan.

As we came closer and entered the far-right door, we were able to take in just a small glimpse of the 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles, and 700 figures that decorate the cathedral.

I took an art history class in college and learned so much about the design choices regarding architecture, so I find the rationales behind the designs to be fascinating.

As we entered the Duomo, the large windows that appeared black from the outside were now bursting with color.

Once our gaze came down from looking at the windows and massive columns, we noticed the intricately designed floor and a bronze line stretching from the main entrance. Our guide pointed out that the tiles along the bronze line portrayed the zodiac signs.

On the left wall there is a calendar and on the right wall is a hole created to let sunlight pass through. Each day the month’s corresponding zodiac sign is illuminated at noon. Mine and Eric’s zodiac signs were placed right next to each other and our guide also thought that was special.

*Looking at the Zodiac signs in the Duomo*

The rooftop of the Duomo is perhaps the most special and beautiful part of the whole structure. Unfortunately, our ticket did not gain access to the top nor did we make it back in time at the end of the tour to check it out.

Our next stop on the tour was The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II–Italy's oldest active shopping gallery.

This space was jam-packed with elegant storefronts, gelato stands, and tourists taking part in the timeless tradition of “the spin”, where you spin your heel counterclockwise on a mosaic bull's genitals for good luck and prosperity.

We continued north towards the Brera district–a charming neighborhood pulsating with vibrant art, fashion, and cafes.

Moving along the tour, we made a quick stop at the Sforzesco Castle, which was built as a fortress during the fourteenth century before heading to our final destination.

For the grand finale, we arrived at the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. A church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the site of one of the world's most famous and fascinating paintings–The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci.

After 2.5 hours of walking the mosaic tiles of the Duomo, the cobblestone streets of Berea, and the hall where Da Vinci’s’ Last Supper has existed for more than half a millennium, it was time for gelato and dinner–in that order.

We walked to the Navigli district, aka the Canal district, and grabbed a table at Posto di Conversazione–a recommendation from our tour guide.

Don't miss the opportunity to savor authentic Italian cuisine at traditional trattorias and experience Milan's vibrant nightlife.

June 9

We woke up, grabbed breakfast at a cafe across the street from our hotel, and then drove to Lake Como. Italy's third-largest lake is surrounded by lush green mountains and dotted with charming lakeside towns an hour north of Milan.

We parked on the edge of Varenna, a picturesque village nestled on the shores of Lake Como that enchants visitors with its colorful houses, charming waterfront promenade, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.

After more pizzas for Emily, Eric, and me, lasagna for Jake, and gelatos for all, we hopped on a ferry to Bellagio. This glamorous village of Lake Como is also known as the "Pearl of the Lake." due to its colorful houses cascading down the steep hillsides and enchanting gardens. No wonder A-list celebs like George Clooney, Madonna, Richard Branson, and Sylvester Stallone have villas here.

While we loved our afternoon in Lake Como, it was just a pitstop to our next destination–St. Moritz.

By 6 PM, we were en route to Switzerland following a winding mountain road full of roundabouts, waterfalls, and breathtaking alpine landscapes. When we left Lake Como, it was about 75 degrees. When we arrived in St. Moritz it was about 55 degrees. We had ascended roughly 5000ft within the 90-minute drive and were now surrounded by snow-capped mountains, shimmering lakes, and lush forests.

*The Swiss flag flying above the Hotel Kempinski across from our hotel!*

By 8 PM, we were checking into Hotel Nolda. A 3-star rustic hotel that offered full board, meaning we got breakfast and dinner included in our stay, as well as free cable car tickets which we took full advantage of.

June 10

Our first Swiss adventure was up The Diavolezza Cable Car for views of the Bernina Range and surrounding glaciers.

When we parked at the cable car station, we saw The Glacier Express pulling up. It is a regularly scheduled train between Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn and St. Moritz. It was a full circle moment as Eric and I had been on this train when we traveled to Zermatt in 2018!

Once we got to the mountain station, we had every intention of doing a relatively easy hike, but Mother Nature had other plans. As I mentioned at the beginning, early June is still off-season. Snow still lingers along the trails. In fact, this was the very first day the cable cars were in operation since the winter season ended. A few minutes into our trail, we came across far too much snow, and without the proper winter gear, our instincts told us to turn back.

So, that’s what we did. Instead, we enjoyed a nice lunch at the mountain hut with the most epic views. We even witnessed a few small avalanches across the range.

After lunch, we moved on to hike #2–The Morteratsch Glacier. The third largest glacier in the Eastern Alps, after the Pasterze Glacier in Austria. Eric and I also hiked to the Pasterze Glacier in week 90.

We hiked to the foot of the glacier which took roughly 45 minutes from the parking lot. Along the trail were signs showing the yearly change in glacier length. These measurements have been recorded since 1878 and within the last 145 years, the ice has receded over 9,200 ft.

For our final activity of the day, we rode the funicular up to the Muottas Muragl.

*Riding the funicular up to Muottas Muragl*

A high alpine mountain with panoramic vistas, a luxury hotel, and a playground that is probably meant for kids…but we took our fair share of turns on the track ride glider.

*Jake, Emily, and Eric standing on the Muottas Muragl*

After a full day up in the mountains, it was time to come back down and enjoy a nice dinner back at Hotel Nolda.

A fun fact about St. Moritz is it was the host of the 1928 and 1948 Winter Olympics. Across from our hotel, there is a commemorative stone, and on the stone is a list of the participants. One of the 1948 USA participants had the last name “Frazer” which was my last name before I got married :)

June 11

One last cable car ride up the mountain behind our hotel before we hit the road back to Austria.

It was a crisp clear morning with cows grazing and barely anyone else on the mountain. I think the off-season might just be the best season.

We followed the Inns River all the way back to Austria and later found out people can raft down the river…might have to add that to our list of things to do someday. The drive from St. Moritz to Innsbruck is a beautiful and scenic route through the majestic Swiss and Austrian Alps. You would never know you crossed the border if it weren’t for the GPS screen telling you. After 2.5 hours, we parked in Innsbruck to grab some pizza (shocker, lol) and stretch our legs.

This is one of Eric and Í’s favorite Austrian cities so were excited to show it off to Emily and Jake!

June 12

The rest of the trip was spent meandering through different parts of Austria. Crossing off more alpine villages and lakes, Austrian cities, castles, wineries and breweries, and lastly a little humbling visit to the largest concentration camp in Austria.

We spent the afternoon split between Hallstatt and Gosausee. This was my 13th time visiting Hallstatt, but who’s counting…

It is always so pretty, so I am always happy to go back!

For dinner, we went to the Stiegl Brewery in Salzburg. A renowned brewery with the best Radler, beer-cheese soup, and views of the city.

June 13

Eric had to go to work, so the three of us had a relaxing day exploring the weekly Tuesday farmers market and then SUPing on the Traunsee all afternoon.

June 14

Our final day together started out with dropping Eric off at work and then doing a self-guided tour around the Mauthausen Concentration Camp. This camp is a haunting reminder of the atrocities committed during World War II. Operating from 1938 to 1945, Mauthausen was one of the largest and most brutal Nazi concentration camps.

The camp's quarry served as a place of hard labor, where inmates were subjected to extreme physical exertion under inhumane conditions. The vast complex included sub-camps, gas chambers, and crematoriums. Today, Mauthausen stands as a solemn memorial and museum, paying tribute to the victims and serving as a somber reminder of the horrors of the Holocaust.

*The Stairs of Death at Mauthausen Concentration Camp"*

After a somber morning, we headed for Dürnstein. A charming village in the Wachau Valley most famous for its wineries along the Danube River.

We sat down for lunch at the Durnstein Castle and after looking at the overly-priced menu, we just ordered drinks and Appetizers. To our delight, the kitchen also brought us a free soup sample. While it was all delicious and the views are really nice, I could never recommend the castle restaurant to anyone visiting the area…this place literally charges you just to sit down. So we went for 2nd lunch at a tavern just a few doors down which was delicious!

As we were leaving we stopped in one of the open vineyards to take a few pictures.

The photo ops continued on the Gmundenerberg by our house as we enjoyed our last meal with Emily and Jake which just so happened to be McDonald’s to go :)

June 15

Our much-anticipated trip came to an end in the early morning hours as I dropped Emily and Jake off at Salzburg train station and they made their way back stateside.

The journey from the fashionable streets of Milan to the tranquil shores of Lake Como, followed by the glitzy allure of St. Moritz, and finally, the breathtaking Austrian villages was a whirlwind adventure leaving us exhausted, yet simultaneously anxiously awaiting the next trip.

Week 137-139: Italy, Switzerland, and Austria with Emily and Jake

Week 143: 1000 days in Austria

Week 136: Finkstonball & Hans Zimmer LIVE in Vienna