Week 149-151: Greece

My family flying to Europe seems to be a new yearly tradition and this year we spent a week in Greece – Yiamas!

Greece is home to more archaeological museums than any other country in the world, it is the third-most mountainous country in Europe (this was a shocker to me), boosts over 6,000 islands, holds the spot for the third largest producer of olives, and is the third most-booked country on the planet. About 25 million tourists visit Greece each year to experience life on the Mediterranean and for seven days, it was our turn!

September 2

We landed in Greece - my 28th country and Eric’s 29th.

*Airplane views approach Athens, Greece*

I booked a private transfer from the airport to our hotel, Athens Manor Houses. This hotel is made up of three buildings and 16 luxurious suites located in the most vibrant spot of Athens between Plaka and Monastiraki and just a few minutes walk from Syntagma Square.

Athens Manor Houses
Where | ΑΘΗΝΑΙΔΟΣ 2 ΚΑΙ, Evaggelistrias, Athina 105 64, Greece
Cost | €€€

After a quick sit and recharge, we walked a few minutes to grab dinner at Ella’s. A recommendation coming from the receptionist at our hotel.

ELLAS
Where | Ellas, Mitropoleos 26, Athina 105 63, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 10 AM - Midnight
Cost | €€

Continuing down the popular pedestrian street, we arrived at Syntagma Square to watch the changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier. This ceremony takes place every hour by members of the military unit who stand proudly in perfect stillness guarding the Monument of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament and Presidential Mansion.

Charging of the Guard
Where | Leof. Vasilisis Amalias 133, Athina 105 57, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily @ Every Hour / Sunday @ 11 AM is the official ceremony
Cost | Free

After researching the facts of this ceremony, I learned a couple of things:

Every soldier guards for about an hour, 3 times in total every 48 hours.
The slow-motion ceremony movements are to protect their blood circulation after 60 minutes of immobility.
The soldiers are also selected according to their height, physical condition, and psychological state as well as character and morality, as they follow hard training before they become part of this honorary unit.
A guard’s training lasts for one month and includes exercises to keep the body and mind still.
Apart from staying still, the soldiers must also not make any face or eye move and must not show any expression.

The finale of my family's 24-hour travel day was taking a funicular up to Lycabettus Hill–the highest point of Athens.

Lycabettus Hill Cable Car
Where | Aristippou 1, Athina 106 76, Greece
Opening Hours | 9 AM - 2:30 AM
Cost | €10

Seeing the Athens Acropolis for the first time is an awe-inspiring moment. Of course, that moment is interrupted by the flock of tourists shoving you around trying to get the perfect photo.

*The Acropolis from the highest point in Athens*

Nonetheless, to see the Acropolis and then pan over to see the Panathenaic Stadium, and its giant Olympic rings was a cool moment. It's a moment you realize that you are in the presence of something not just ancient, but transcendent—a symbol of human achievement and tradition.

*The Panathenic Stadium from the highest point in Athens*

September 3

We started our morning with a leisurely walk through the city before starting this Acropolis Tour.

*Family photo before the start of the tour*

For 4 hours, we walked in a group with other Americans and a couple of Aussies rediscovering the ancient doric columns of the Parthenon, admiring the open-air theatre sitting beneath the slopes of the Acropolis, and marveling at the sculpture masterpieces displayed inside the Acropolis Museum–one of the most important museums in the world.

The Parthenon is an ancient Greek temple located on the Acropolis and dedicated to the goddess Athena. Made up of 8 columns on both short sides and 17 columns on both of its long sides, it is one of the most iconic and well-preserved examples of classical Greek architecture and is considered a symbol of ancient Greek culture and civilization.

While it is known for its perfect proportions, balanced design, and use of architectural elements like columns and pediments, it is actually not perfectly straight. The columns are actually erected at an angle.

What was once just a temple, has also been used as a Christian church, an Islamic mosque, and a storage facility for gunpowder (which led to an explosion in 1687, causing significant damage). For the last two centuries, the Parthenon has been undergoing massive preservation and restoration while remaining a major tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After traversing over the marble and stones of the Parthenon, we walked down the hill and entered the museum.

This four-story museum is designed to showcase and preserve the artifacts and sculptures from the Acropolis and its surrounding area. Whether you are standing at a breathing distance from 6th-century statues that once stood the Acropolis, or walking across the ruins of an ancient Athenian neighborhood. Each level of the museum offers an immersive experience.

*Relief sculptures inside the Acropolis Museum*

After we left the museum we went back to the hotel to rest a bit. We made a stop at the Panathenic stadium before dinner. The same stadium where we were looking down from the tallest point in Athens the night before.

The Panathenaic Stadium is one of the main historic attractions of Athens and it is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. This horseshoe-shaped structure invites you to imagine the roar of the crowds. Standing at the same spot where Olympians competed in 1896 and again in 2004. Every morning you can enter the stadium to go jogging. We unfortunately just didn’t find time to make it over, but would be a cool experience if you had an extra day in Athens.

The Panathenaic Stadium
Where | Leof. Vasileos Konstantinou, Athina 116 35, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 8 AM - 7 PM / 5 PM (in winter)
Cost | €10 / €5 (students and seniors)

We enjoyed one last dinner in Athens at Elaia Tavern before our early morning ferry to Milos in the morning. The Elaia Tavern rooftop sits at the top of a three-level mansion in the heart of Athens, Plaka.

Elaia’s Tavern
Where | Erechtheos 16, Athina 105 56, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 11:30AM - :30AM
Cost | €€

September 4

At 7:30 AM, we were loading into a van and heading to the Piraeus Ferry Port and boarding the Aegean Anemos ship 20 minutes later.

In the months leading up to our trip, I read so many mixed reviews on ferries. We could take a 2.5-hour “fast ferry” that is more like an airplane with designated seats close together, or take a 7-hour “slow ferry” that’s more like a cruise ship. If the weather is bad, the seas are unforgiving and if you’re on a fast ferry then you are almost guaranteed to get seasick.

We decided to take the slow ferry for a few reasons. It was cheaper, we did not want to risk getting seasick, and our Airbnb would not be ready for several hours if we took the fast one. Being able to get up and move around going out on deck each time we pulled into a port was cool, but here are some notes to remember and to consider if I ever find myself on another 7-hour Greek ferry ride.

Shoulder season ferries are great. There were maybe 4 other people sitting in our section.
VIP seating isn’t worth it unless it’s choppy seas.
Book a cabin if you take a long ferry.
Bring food with you because the cafe prices are steep for what you get.
Bring cards/books to help pass the time because, unlike a normal cruise, there is no entertainment on the ferry.
Wifi is €5 for 5 hours and can only be used on one device.
There’s a designated pet room so people can bring dogs on board!
It’s really cold inside the ship, so bring a sweater. Maybe even a blanket and pillow for added comfort.

After 7 hours and 4 other port stops, we were finally pulling into Milos! Like all the Cyclades, Milos was showing off with its whitewashed buildings clinging to cliffside villages overlooking the bluest waters.

Milos is the 5th largest Cycladic island and is not as touristy and well-known as its famous neighbors — Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Ios, and Mykonos.

Like Athens, I had pre-arranged our transfers from the port since we did not have a car. So we walked out to a man holding my name on a piece of paper, hopped into the van, and drove to the capital city of Milos–Plaka where we were staying for the next two nights. The driver pulled up to a street where he said he could not drive any further, but the Airbnb host was there waiting for us to help carry our bags and hand over the keys.

We stayed at Villa Efrosini. A hillside villa overlooking the Aegean Sea steps away from the charming white-washed streets of Plaka. It was the perfect spot to watch the sunset although the two nights we were there ended up being cloudy and even rained for the first time in 50 years, based on an old man’s word who we crossed paths with.

Villa Efrosini
Where | Plaka Milos, 84800, Greece

After the long journey to get to the Airbnb, we just wanted to sit and enjoy the fact that we made it. Eric and I immediately got into the pool which was very cold, but we tried to overlook that and concentrate on the breathtaking, panoramic views. Not sure what took our breath away more, the first steps into the water or the views looking out at the landscape…

By 6:30 PM, our ATV rentals had arrived. We spent about an hour going over the rules and learning how to ride them. It was more challenging than expected, but we were excited to have them as a way to get around the island. After our lesson, we walked into town for dinner and ate at Archontoula. Perhaps the most popular restaurant in Plaka Milos. The stone streets were lined with wooden tables, people eager for their food, and our first glimpse of the infamous hot pink, Greek bougainvillea vines.

Archontoula
Where | Unnamed Rd Greece, Plaka 848 00, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 12PM - 1AM
Cost | €€

*Tzatziki dip and stuffed mushrooms for an appetizer*

At every restaurant we ate at, they bring you a free treat to finish off the meal. After the servers took away our plates at Archontoula, they brought out another plate with dollops of greek yogurt and honey.

September 5

Eric and I were most excited about this day. A day where we could finally go out and explore Milos’ beautiful beaches, caves, and volcanic landscape. We mounted our ATV and drove across the island to meet our group for this half-day snorkeling tour. For five hours, we would discover beautiful spots in Milos only accessible by boat, on a guided speedboat cruise from the cliffs of Kleftiko to the Sykia Cave and so much more.

My parents and sister opted for this tour instead. Hoping in a minivan to discover the incredible geology of Milos, witness the inactive volcano, and the remains of a sulfur mining plant along with other landscapes.

Some of the most fascinating things we found out on tour:

Kleftiko Bay used to be a base for pirates during the island's Turkish occupation. It's now one of the most famous attractions in Milos, accessible only by boat or a long hike.
Bentonite is mined and used for cat litter
Milos’ economy is based on mining
The last time the Milo volcano erupted was about 90,000 years ago, leaving two inactive craters today on the surface of Milos island.

With two hours left of our tour, the captain came to the front of the boat to inform us the rest of the tour would have to end due to some bad storms rolling through. The good news is we would get to get a full refund! We ended up leaving a nice tip because we still got to see nearly everything that was promised in the tour.

We were dropped off at the starting point and right next to Sirocco, a restaurant I had been really wanting to eat at. The hot volcanic landscape allows this place to cook the food in the sand! So while we should have just immediately got back on our ATV and headed back to the Airbnb, Eric and I stopped for lunch. I hated to rush through it because it was one of the yummiest we had since arriving in Greece!

Sirocco
Where | Παλιοχώρι, Milos 848 00, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 10 AM - 11 PM
Cost | €€

After rapidly inhaling all our food, we made it back to the Airbnb just in time.

We waited for the storm to pass and once it did, we headed back out to the white, lunar-like, volcanic beach of Sarakiniko to take a few pictures before heading to dinner.

We went back up into Plaka for dinner. Passing the place we ate the night before and walking into another recommendation given to us by the Airbnb host called Mavros Xoiros. Meaning Black Pig, it was a Greek BBQ joint. Being vegetarians, Eric and I ate so many eggplants, risotto, mushrooms, potatoes, and greek salads on our trip but it was delicious every time. On our walk back to the airbnb, we saw an ice cream shop so obviously had to make a pitstop.

Palaios Coffee & Pastry
Where | Plaka 848 00, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 8 AM - 12 AM
Cost | €€

September 6

Our time in Milos came to an end as we were leaving to catch a ferry to Mykonos. This time it was a 2.5-hour, fast ferry. We took our seats and I intentionally fell asleep so I could skip feeling any rocking on the boat as it was fairly windy. It was smooth ferrying until the last 10 minutes. It got really rocky in those minutes, but luckily not long enough to do any damage.

Another man greeted us as we walked off the boat and was holding a sign with my name on it to take us to our final greek Airbnb, Mykonos Divino. This one was epic. While not located directly in the old town, it was on a hillside where we could look out at the town from afar which in some ways is better.

Mykonos Divino
Where | Agia Sofia, Tourlos, 84600, Greece

We relaxed and hung out in the pool until our tour guide came to pick us up to take us on this half-day Mykonos tour. The tour started at Mykonos lighthouse. It was built in 1891 after a British steamship sunk off the north coast of Mykonos in 1887, leading to the death of eleven people. This unfortunate incident made the construction of a lighthouse a necessity as a means to keep sailing ships safe. This is also perhaps the windiest spot in Mykonos so hold on to your hats and be careful walking along the rocks!

*A breezy family photo by the Mykonos lighthouse*

As we drove across the center of the island, through sleepy towns and picturesque farms, and passing small chapels, huge fig trees, and fields of goats, the guide shared the insight that many of the houses have built their own churches. So for every 5-6 houses where a family lives, there is a church.

We stopped in Ano Mera, a quiet village in the heart of the island. Bakeries, taverns, and cafes surround the main attraction–a restored 16th-century monastery Panagia Tourliani.

The next stop was Elia Beach. This is the longest sandy beach in Mykonos with the calmest waters due to its southern position on the island and it offers a wide choice of bars, water sports, and pricey sunbeds. We ordered a few drinks to cool off before continuing the tour.

We headed into old town Mykonos! There are pretty streets, and then there’s Matogianni. Home to colorful Venetian mansions, brightly colored bougainvillea, and the endless picturesque stairways.

The guide said it’s rare to see a house number on the building, but as we rounded a corner we saw a house with a number–#44. This would really only be significant to me or those who know me because 44 is the number I used in softball and since graduating I see it everywhere. Whether it’s the change on a receipt, the minutes on a clock, or an order number in a drive-through. It’s just ironic how it follows me around, even to Mykonos Greece!

Unlike the iconic blue domes of Santorini, Mykonos did not have any big blue domes. They had red. When we asked why, it was because red symbolizes the color of Jesus’ blood. While the blue domes represent the sky and the heavens.

Our tour was ended as the sun was setting. The guide took us to all the pretty photo spots and I think Little Venice was the winner for the prettiest spot in Mykonos.

On the opposite side of the Little Venice view, are the iconic Mykonos Windmills. The windmills were once used for agricultural reasons and to harness the power of the summer winds, but today they are no longer operational, rather merely a symbol of Mykonos' past. One of the windmills has actually been converted into an Airbnb!

Every night, people gather all across the island to watch the sunset. Whether viewed shoulder-to-shoulder at the Little Venice, from the infinity pool of your bougie hotel, from a glitzy bar, or from the deck of your romantic sunset cruise, Mykonos’ sunset is world-famous for a reason: it's pretty bloody spectacular.

The tour was over, the sun was down, and we headed to dinner at the Sea Satin Market.

*Sea Satin - our dinner spot in Mykonos on night 1*

September 7

I woke up for sunrise. I do this often in a new place. In fact, there is rarely ever sleeping in or relaxing on a vacation with me…

The position of our Airbnb was perfect for sunrise. As the sun came up over the mountains, the reflecting light bounced off the church tops and villas in the town below.

Eric and I picked up a buggy mobile for the day and explored the island on our own while my family relaxed back at the Airbnb. The narrow roads were lined with stone walls and barely big enough for one car. Yet large trucks, ATVS, and vans somehow find a way to share the road.

Our first beach of the day was Agios Sostis.

A small northern cove with a big contrast to the high-end sunbeds and glam of the beaches in the south. This was a beach many people recommended during our planning stages. Even our guide and Airbnb host agreed it was a good one to see. Not because of the beach, but because of Kiki’s tavern. Kiki’s is a bare-boned tavern serving local food. There are no signs to mark its entrance, nor electricity, phone, or wi-fi. Just you, other beachgoers, and a giant olive tree standing in the center of the restaurant.

Blink and you’ll miss it. The tavern is set above Agios Sostis beach. It opens at noon, but the line starts forming at 11:30 AM.

Kiki’s Tavern
Where | Κυκλαδες μυκονος, Ag. Sostis 846 00, Greece
Opening Hours | Daily, 12-6 pm
Cost | €€
Tips | Visit early, as the queue starts at 11:30 am

After lunch, we got back into our buggy and drove along the coast to Fokos Beach and the Kissing Rocks. It was so windy here, this stop was purely one to just get out and snap a photo before heading to the next place.

*More scattered villas in on the north side*

Stop #3: Lia Beach, an exclusive beach club located on the southeastern coast of the Greek island of Mykonos. Barely anyone was there and nearly every bed was empty. Early September is great in terms of crowds. The water however is definitely starting to get chilly and the wind doesn’t help.

*Tall grass blowing in our buggy mirror*

Our fourth and final beach of the day: Paralia Kalo Livadi. This was another quick stop for a photo opportunity because the blue water was too hard to pass up.

After a day of windy beach hopping, we linked back up with my family and ordered pizza for delivery which is always a good idea!

September 8

Eric and I woke up early and buggy’d into town one last time before our flight.

In the morning, this town is sleepy after partying all night so its stone streets are rid of people, and the calmness washes over the wildly picturesque alleys. We strolled through the streets that seemingly twist and turn in every direction. While this time of day allows for photos without other people, it’s also a time when garbage bags line the streets for the morning collection. So take your pick I suppose.. people or garbage bags?

*Eric and I at the Little Venice view point*

*Kastros empty and without its instagram-famous tables and chairs*

If you are searching for a place where you can relax, enjoy the beach, eat delicious food, and snap pictures of the wildly beautiful bougainvillea-covered archways, Greece is your country! If you are someone who needs more adventures and hates strong wind, you may try looking elsewhere ;)

We said one last goodbye to Greece as the plane dipped toward the city before straightening out and heading back to Vienna.

September 9-11

Our final days were spent back in Gmunden. Running errands, Shannon bought a traditional dirndl, we walked through a horn concert at Schloss Ort and I played my final two softball games of the season with the Athletics. While my team finished #1 in the league, we finished 3rd place in the final tournament. I was named MVP and best pitcher out of all teams in the 2023 season. It was cool my family could be there to see it!

Week 152-154: A Trip Back to Kentucky

Week 143: 1000 days in Austria