Week 193: The Donnerkogel Sky Ladder
We first heard about the “Sky Ladder” when we moved to Austria about 1,356 days ago. Since then, we have visited Gosau in all seasons, always wondering what it would be like to stand on the 40-meter metal rungs spanning a giant gorge connecting the peaks of the Donnerkogel.
Finally, in week 193, we found ourselves hooked to the side of the mountain, ready to climb the infamous Sky Ladder.
Saturday, July 6
After driving 1 hour and 15 minutes from Gmunden to Gosau, we circled the upper parking lot six times, waiting for a car to leave so we could park. Despite the presence of four other parking lots along the road, we were determined to get a primo spot.
Parking spaces fill up fast, so if you plan to visit Gosau, arrive before 10 AM.
Fortunately, everything worked out. We got our space and walked to the Gosaukammbahn which would bring us to the base of the Ferrata. Before that, we dropped our extra bags at the Gablonzer Hütte, where we were staying the night.
The Gablonzer Hütte from the Ferrata
We studied the map several times and checked the weather app about 50 times before setting out on our climb.
Difficulty = C/D = Moderate/Difficult
Climbing elevation gain = 470 meters
Total elevation gain = 650 meters
Climbing time = 3 hours
Total time = 5 hours
Peak = Großer Donnerkogel (2054 m)
The ferrata map from Bersteigen
Altogether, it would be a 5-hour round-trip adventure and we had an 8-hour window before the sun would go down and rain would roll in. The hut also closes its kitchen at 6 PM, so knowing we wouldn’t make it back for dinner, we had a late lunch before setting out on the climb.
Eric on his way up
There were 6 other climbers at the starting point with us, but we went first!
Little flowers growing off of the rock
Closeup of the metal rope
The first 30 minutes was, in my opinion, the hardest. Looking back on the map, there was a “C/D” section right at the start. That mixed with the sweat bees and flies swarming our faces, the sweat dripping down my back, knowing we still had hours left to go, my camera malfunctioning (turned out to be user error), and feeling the need to rush so we weren’t holding up the other climbers behind us created an uncomfortable feeling which isn’t something you want to feel at 6000ft.
Eric on the ferrata
Eric reminded me to slow down and enjoy it because we have been waiting for this moment for a long time.
Eric looking up at the ladder
As we started to get into our groove, we quickly created distance between ourselves and the other climbers which was nice not to feel rushed. It gave us time to also capture plenty of photos and videos of our day.
After 2 hours, the sky ladder finally came into view. We could see other climbers making it safely across the ladder and then crawling up the ridge of the adjacent mountain. They looked like little ants.
Tiny humans on the last section after the ladder
Eric almost to the ladder
Zoomed in view of the mountain
We noticed no one had started going across for several minutes which meant we would have the ladder to ourselves!
Getting closer
We both wanted photos on the ladder, so having it to ourselves was incredibly lucky for us.
Eric went first!
Eric at the start of the ladder
Climbing up
He climbed up 16 steps while I took a few pics.
Eric on the Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
Then he made the bold choice to sit down on the metal rungs. I reminded him we had three cute furbabies at home and not to get too crazy out there––made for an awesome pic though!
Eric sitting on the Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
He safely shimmied back down and it was my turn.
Me, on the Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
I have always done well on the ropes and ladders sections of a via Ferrata and this one was no different. While the drop below is a big one, it was pretty easy. The safety of the harness and the sturdiness of the boots do wonders for your confidence on this kind of climb.
As I reached the middle of the ladder, the wind picked up. This was a little unnerving as the ladder was already a bit bouncy, to begin with, but I continued to inch closer and closer to the wall.
The Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
The Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
Nearly every blog I read and video we watched said the part coming off the ladder and reattaching to the wall was the scariest due to so much exposure. I still think the very beginning section I talked about earlier in this post was the hardest.
Cheesin on the Donnerkogel “Sky Ladder”
Once I was at the end of the ladder, there was so much rock in front of me that I didn’t even notice the distance below me. After I made it up a ways, I waited for Eric to make it across and then we continued the rest of the way together.
Eric climbing the final section
Once we reached the end of the cable we hiked the last 8ish minutes to the summit – marked by a large cross.
Almost to the cross
The views from the top were breathtaking. This link shows all the mountains that are visible from the Donnerkogel. I counted about 100 peaks from this point.
Panoramic views from the Donnerkogel Summit
We let out a sigh of relief for making it to the top and signed the summit book. This time adding a little Pack Mama shoutout to it.
The summit book
This weeks inscription
The cool-looking peak in the back is “The Bischofsmütze” – the highest peak in the Gosau range of Austria’s Dachstein Mountains
Eric posing in front of the Gosau range
It was a one-of-a-kind and a one-and-done kind of Ferrata. Proud and grateful to have done it, but don’t need to do it again.
We followed the trail back to Gablonzer Hütte. This part ended up being pretty miserable and challenging.
Heading back to the hut
Looking up at what we just came down
Random ferrata cable on the way down
It took us 3 hours to reach the top and 90 minutes to descend back down. We were tired and thirsty and one rock even turned into a pizza slice. I had to stop and take the pic.
We eventually made it off the very uneven trail and were welcomed back to civilization by the cutest cow I had ever seen with the cutest haircut!
Pizza slice rock
Cutest cow ever!
We made it back to the hut as the sun was setting on the Dachstein glacier.
If you stay overnight at the Gablonzer Hütte, make sure to be back before 6 PM. We didn’t get back until 7 which created some issues, but everything worked out.
Sunset on the Dachstein Glacier
Sunday, July 7
We woke up to a cloudy, damp day. But, the cross we touched yesterday was clearly visible from our bedroom window.
View from our room at the Gablonzer Hut
Eric looking out of the window
Breakfast views
The Gablonzer Hütte
Outdoor seating at the Gablonzer Hütte
We ate breakfast, packed up our stuff, and walked back to the cable car to go home.
The Donnerkogel cross
Trail signage
Closeup of the wild ferns
We had planned to do a second Ferrata before going home, but with being so fatigued and everything wet from the overnight rain, it will just have to wait for another day.
Pretty clouds clinging to Dachstein
Morning dew
We stood in the place we have stood at least 8 other times looking up at the Donnerkogel and the sky ladder from the ground. Only this time, we weren’t left wondering what it would be like to be on it.
The view from the bottom looking up at the mountain we summited and ferrata we completed
