Week 210: Three Days in The Dolomites

With just three weeks left in Europe, we headed to the Dolomites for a few final days of adventure.

Thursday

After a scenic drive, we arrived at the Moarlhof Farmhouse Hotel near Kastelrotto.

Click here to book the hotel

This traditional, family-run hotel offered a warm, inviting experience, blending the charm of an old farmhouse with modern comforts. Set against the breathtaking Dolomites, Moarlhof felt like the perfect place to unwind and connect with nature.

Dinner was a treat, as Moarlhof sources almost all its ingredients from its own gardens or local farms.

Friday

The day started with a big breakfast at the farmhouse before setting off for the Gran Cir via Ferrata.

We parked early and geared up, feeling that mix of excitement and anticipation before a big climb. We started with the Kleine Cir, a shorter, more straightforward route, but still packed with fun technical sections that warmed us up for what lay ahead.

The hike to the starting point was straightforward. We walked up the grassy slopes to the rocky terrain where the Via Ferrata began.

The Kleine Cir provided a taste of the vertical exposure we’d encounter throughout the day, and as we ascended, we felt our adrenaline kick in.

At the top, we paused to catch our breath and take in the sweeping views of the surrounding peaks, feeling like we were on top of the world – or at least a small slice of it.

After taking in the breathtaking views from our first climb, we began the descent, navigating the loose scree that cascaded down the mountainside.

The “scree”, the technical term for the hill of loose rocks, was steep. With each step, we would hear a few rocks slide down.

Reaching the bottom, we took a quick break, refueled, and mentally prepared for the next leg—The Gran Cir.

The Gran Cir Via Ferrata was a different beast. Even though it is taller, the climbing path was more of a hike. We were able to climb up without ever hooking into the cable. At times, we’d pause mid-climb just to soak it all in and lower the heart rates before continuing up.

The final push to the summit felt exhilarating. The Gran Cir and Kleine Cir made for a perfect day of climbing. The experience reminded us why we love the mountains – the challenge, the beauty, and the pure thrill of standing at the peak after a hard climb.

These yellow-beaked blackbirds are everywhere in the Dolomites. They are called Alpine Choughs. Known as the “Kings of Crows” and represent the spirit of Mountaineers.

We came down the mountain and made our way to Alpe di Siusi, a place we tried to visit back in Weeks 98-99. Last time, it was too cloudy to see more than 10 feet in front of you.

We took the cable car from Ortesi and arrived just in time to catch the sunset.

Watching the last light of day sweep over the plateau’s iconic, rolling meadows was magical—a perfect way to cap off the day before another delicious farmhouse dinner awaiting us back at the Moarlhof.

We watched as the jagged peaks of the Sassalungo transitioned from bright orange to light pink to bluish grey and then got back into the cable car and headed back to the hotel.

Saturday

We changed our plans last minute and took an impromptu detour to the Lagazuoi Tunnels. After a two-hour drive east from the Moarhof, passing vibrant larches and towering peaks, we reached the base of the Lagazuoi cable car. A two-hour drive sounds far, but when you’re in the Dolomites, the time in the car flies by.

When we arrived, the cable car was closed–which we already knew since we were here in the “off-season,’” so we decided to hike to the top starting on the far right side, hitting the summit in the middle, and then following the level-A via Ferrata along the left side.

What was once a backdrop for a deadly war is now a hiker’s paradise. Hikers from all over the world now walk the same paths forged by soldiers fighting for territory. As we were walking up from the parking lot, we caught a glimpse of the Cinque Torri. Another spot for WWI trenches and a place we explored the first time we visited the Dolomites in weeks 98-99.

The Lagazuoi Tunnels were constructed by the Italians during the First World War to undermine the Austrians. Currently, the completely restored tunnel runs up the mountain for more than 1 km, which means if you decide to hike up like we did, prepare to climb up what feels like 600 steps.

The tunnels were built with the idea to bring a large number of explosives under the mountain and then blast them to take out the Austrian troops who were occupying the tops of the mountains.

Every 65 steps there were viewpoints, each one serving a different purpose.

After 2.5 hours, we made it to the top! The mountain hut was also closed, which makes sense, but we hoped it would be open for a little snack and drink.

The sun started to set around 4 PM and at this point, it was almost 2 PM and it would take about 2 hours to get back down. So as soon as we caught our breath and snapped a few pictures, we began our descent.

It was at this point we realized this was the last mountain adventure of our expat lives and Eric said –

“I think the Dolomites are the most beautiful place on Earth.”

*Eric walking along “the Austrian trail” back down*

We descended 9,101 ft, walking through the remnants of trenches, climbing down ladders, crossing bridges, and maneuvering the slippery screes until we touched the flat pavement.

Sunday

Sunday morning, after breakfast, we checked out and began our journey back to Gmunden. Along the way, we stopped in Innsbruck for our favorite pizza.

Packmama Tip: If you eat inside, they give you a much larger slice for the same price!

As one final adventure before getting back to Gmunden, we stopped at the Krimml Waterfall.

The Krimml Waterfall is the tallest in Europe. At 1,246 ft, the sheer power of the cascading water was mesmerizing. It’s even claimed to have healing powers…

The Krimml Waterfalls are a recognized natural remedy for allergies and asthma. The spray in the vicinity of the waterfalls reduces allergic inflammation of the respiratory tract, causing allergy and asthma symptoms to disappear.

Packmama Tip: When visiting the Krimml Waterfall, prepare for mist and strong winds near the falls. Wear waterproof gear and bring a camera cover to capture the views without too much damage.

Standing in front of the Krimml Waterfall

The Dolomites and the entirety of Austria have gifted us countless memories over the years, and this three-day weekend was no exception. As we get ready to say goodbye to Europe, we’re grateful for every adventure and excited for what lies ahead!

Week 210: Three Days in The Dolomites

Week 211: Our Final Week in Austria

Week 208-209: Celebrating Four Years in Austria