Week 199: 7 days in Sardinia

As we headed into our 199th week living abroad, we wanted to celebrate this milestone with one last adventure before hitting the big 200. We usually gravitate toward the mountains, but with summer in full swing, the allure of the sea was too tempting to resist. So, with our friend Nate, we chose to spend the week in the water on the Italian Island of Sardinia.

In this recap, we’ll dive deep into its coves, forests, and beaches showing off its stunning coastline and Mediterranean charm.

August 11

Our Sardinian adventure officially began when Eric and I landed in Olbia, a coastal city on the island’s northeastern tip. The airport has an interesting past—its original airfield was bombed during WWII, and the Germans had to build a replacement. Fast forward to the ’60s, when commercial flights picked back up, it eventually led to building the sleek, modern airport we arrived at.

Landing in Olbia 

After a quick 9-minute drive, we checked into our hotel, Hotel De Plam, eager to start exploring. The hotel is a bit outdated and nothing fancy, but it is in a good location and decent price.

Click here to book the same hotel

Sunset in Olbia 

An empty street in Olbia at night 

Olbia felt laid-back, with a mix of ancient history and a lively marina. We wandered through the streets for a few minutes before going back to the airport to pick up Nate. Dinner was an easy choice—pizza, of course!

Olbia Ferris Wheel

August 12:

Day two kicked off with one of the highlights of the trip—a boat tour to Tavolara Island.

Click here to book the same excursion!

We boarded a brand-new inflatable dinghy and set out along Sardinia’s coastline, passing luxurious yachts and clusters of mussel farms.

Selfie with Tavolara 

Our captain made a couple of stops during the tour and the moment he let out the anchor, everyone jumped off the sides and into the water.

Nate diving into the water 

Tavolara Island is part of a protected marine reserve and an underwater paradise. We spent hours snorkeling through its crystal-clear waters, surrounded by colorful schools of fish—starfish clinging to the sand, darting bluefish, and even translucent fish that seemed to disappear in the water. It was surreal, like swimming through a living aquarium.

Lots of fish by the boat 

Eric jumping into the water

Nate blowing bubbles

Afterward, we grabbed lunch at McDonald’s (not the most local cuisine, but always a cheap meal).

We rested for a couple of hours before driving north to a town called San Pantaleo. It reminded me of European Arizona. Not just the extreme heat, but also the building, storefronts, and colors.

San Pantaleo

Cute doors in San Pantaleo

San Pantaleo market

Cute San Pantaleo cacti

August 13

We checked out of our hotel and hit the road, aiming for Cala Gonone.

Before reaching the beach we had planned to tackle one of Sardinia’s via ferratas–the Ferrata Di Badde Pentumas…but we got lost. The dirt roads led us deep into the countryside, passing wild goats and unmarked paths that had us second-guessing our GPS.

We thought we found the entry point, but after an hour of navigating bumpy terrain and without any certainty, we finally admitted defeat and headed to our next destination.

By the time we reached Hotel Costa Dorada, we were more than ready for lunch and a little R&R. The hotel was a perfect retreat, complete with private beach access.

Click here to book Hotel Costa Dorada

Cala Gonone

Relaxing at the Cala Gonone beach

One of may ice creams

August 14

Another early morning meant catching the sunrise on the beach while the boys were still sleeping and the world was still quiet

Sunrise reflecting on the water 

Sunrise in Cala Gonone

Sunrise in Cala Gonone

There’s something magical about being up at dawn, watching the sun paint the sky over a sleepy coastal town.

Sunrise in Cala Gonone

Swings in Cala Gonone

Sunrise in Cala Gonone

By 7 AM, I was back in the room to wake up Eric for breakfast before we headed out for an 8-hour boat excursion down the coast.

Click here to book the same 8-hour Cala Gonone Boat Excursion

Our hotel in Cala Gonone

Unfortunately, Nate wasn’t feeling well, so it was just Eric and I.

The boat tour took us to some of Sardinia’s most famous hidden beaches—Cala Luna, Cala Marilou, and the Pools of Venus.

Cala Gonone boat tour 

These stunning spots are only accessible by water, which meant the beaches weren’t packed, but the boats sure were. The water was unbelievably clear, and the secluded coves felt like secret getaways.

Another unfortunate event happened when I jumped into the clearest water I have ever been in only to realize the GoPro was just slightly open. Salt water and electronics do not mix well so we had to say goodbye to the GoPro.

Cala Gonone boat tour 

Cala Gonone boat tour 

At one point, we considered renting our own dinghy boat for the day, but in hindsight, we were glad we hadn’t. The waves got pretty rough towards the end of the day, and having a guide to navigate them for us and reassure us where the safe swimming spots were made the experience much more enjoyable.

Cala Gonone boat tour 

After returning to the pier at 5 PM, we ended the day with a seaside dinner, soaking in the last rays of the day while reflecting on the natural beauty of Sardinia. A local kitty came to join us and waited for me to drop a piece of seafood.

Lobster pasta 

Cala Kitty 

August 15

After a slow morning and yummy breakfast, we packed up and hit the road again, this time for a scenic drive along the Baunei Coast toward Cagliari, the island’s capital. It was scenic and beautiful until both guys admitted they get car sick on windy roads…lol

We made a pit stop for some unexpectedly delicious grocery store sushi, then navigated Cagliari’s narrow streets to our next home base: Suite 101.

Click here to book the same apartment

Our street in Cagliari

When we walked into the apartment, we were blown away—it was even bigger and more beautiful than the pictures online. After settling in, we spent the evening exploring the city, zigzagging through ancient Roman ruins, massive stone arches, and hidden gardens.

An old archway in Cagliari

Cagliari Roman Ampitheater 

Cagliari tunnel

Cagliari buildings 

The cobblestone alleys and steep staircases were charming, but the heat had us sweating by the time we reached the top of the city. As the sun set, we found the perfect spot to watch it dip below the horizon, wrapping up the day with a magical sunset view.

August 16

Just a short 50-minute drive from Cagliari, we met up with a coasteering tour. Coasteering is one of our favorite adrenaline-filled activities, and Sardinia’s rocky coastline made for the perfect spot. We scrambled over rocks, swam through secluded coves, and leaped off cliffs into the blue Mediterranean—pure, heart-pounding fun.

I am always booking our tours through GetYourGuide, however, when there is a better deal to be had, we take it. So if you want to enjoy this adventure at half the price for all the fun, this is the company we booked with.

The first jump

This was our third coasteering trip this year—first in Madeira, then Scotland, and now Sardinia. Each time has been wildly different, but equally thrilling.

8-meter jump 

I took the first jump of the day, and it turned out to be a bit shallow. The guide’s advice to “bend your knees” didn’t quite prepare me for how quickly I’d hit the sand below. My pinky toe took the brunt of it, but I was able to relay the message to the rest of the group.

Walking along a narrow ledge. Everyone fell off except Eric and Nate!

Walking along the narrow ledge

Nate and Eric after jumping from 10-meters 

August 17

For our last full day, we headed to the western coast to take on Via Ferrata Pan di Zucchero, a jaw-dropping sea stack only accessible by boat.

To book the boat to the via ferrata, we booked a water taxi through the Warung Beach Club

Entrance to the Ferrata 

No need for a guide as we are very familiar by this point.

Ferrata Views

The climb was quick—about 40 minutes to the top, with tons of photo breaks along the way. Tiny lizards darted between the rocks as we took in the sweeping views of Sardinia’s dramatic coastline and the impossibly blue sea below.

Ferrata Views

Cool sea arch 

Eric leaning over the edge 

Climbing up

Nate and Eric 

Closeup of a rock flower 

Nate signing the Ferrata book

Another sea arch 

Views from the top

Jumped into the water after the Ferrata

After the climb, we descended back onto to taxi boat and spent the next hour at Warung Beach Club. The calm, shallow waters were the perfect spot to unwind before we hit the road back to Cagliari for one last evening in the city.

Sardinian laundry 

We arrived back to Cagliari in time for a sunset walk around the city and one last pizza.

Sunset from the Bastion Saint Remy

Sunset from the Bastion Saint Remy

Sunset from the Bastion Saint Remy

August 18

On our final day, Nate caught an early flight back to Kentucky, leaving Eric and me with a full day on the island. We kept it low-key, wandering through a local outlet mall and spending a few hours playing games in an arcade—unexpected, but honestly, so fun! It was the perfect way to wind down before returning our rental car and heading to the airport.

Our flight back to Vienna was delayed, and we didn’t land until 2 AM, meaning we didn’t get home until 5 AM. But the exhaustion was worth it—Sardinia had delivered everything we could’ve asked for and more!

Sarah Hollis

Hello! I am Sarah, an Austria-based freelance art director and the founder of this blog, The Pack Mama.

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Week 200: WE ARE MOVING BACK TO AMERICA!

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Week 198: 10th Year of Summerball in Attnang-Puchheim